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A pagoda of skulls
China supported the Khmer
Rouge, but so did the USA. Stanley Johnson reflects on
President Jiang's visit to Cambodia.
There has been a nice symmetry in their schedules. While
President Clinton has been in Vietnam, President Jiang
Zemin of China has been visiting Cambodia.
As I landed
last Saturday morning at Phnom Penh's Pochentong
airport, workmen were erecting huge portraits of the Chinese
leader, as well as a gigantic banner which said: `LONG
LIVE THE BONS [SiC] OF FRIENDSHIP BETWEEN THE KINGDOM OF
CAMBODIA AND THE PEOPLES REPUBLIC OF CHINA.'
Two days
later I was actually in Siem Reap, an hour's flight
north-west of Phnom Penh and the jumping-off point for a
visit to Angkor Wat, when President Jiang arrived in the town.
The dusty streets were
filled with schoolchildren waving banners and pictures
of Jiang, and every few minutes a truck brought in
another load of flag-waving farmers from the
countryside.
Of course, it is easy to get caught up in the spirit of
the occasion. The blue-andred Cambodian flag with its
central emblem of the great Angkor Wat temple is an
attractive sight when waved by hundreds of fresh-faced
Khmers on a sunny, not-too-hot November day.
There was a
festival mood in the air. But I couldn't help thinking,
as I watched, of the deep irony inherent in Jiang's
visit to Cambodia.
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The fact is that China supported Saroth Sar (as Pol Pot
was first called) from his earliest days.
That support
helped the Khmer Rouge win the long war against Lon Nol
in 1975, and was maintained through the years of terror
until, in 1979, the Vietnamese drove Pol Pot back into
the jungle. Nor did the support end there. The Chinese
connection remained critically important over the
following decades, as the international community became
increasingly involved in the fate of Cambodia and as the
Khmer Rouge tried to win back at the negotiating table
the power and prestige which they had not been able to
retain through their regime of cruelty, violence and
repression.
You can't be in Cambodia for more than a few hours
without realizing how savagely, how indelibly, the Pol
Pot years have marked the country and its inhabitants.
Almost all the people I talked to had lost brothers or
sisters or parents in the killing fields or in the Tuol
Sleng torture centre. Perhaps the most dramatic symbol
of this is the pagoda they have built at Choeung Ek, 15
kilometres from the centre of Phnom Penh. This structure
has been erected in the very heart of the killing
fields. It towers above the surrounding countryside, 17
storeys high. On every storey of the pagoda, the human
skulls are packed tight - 9,895 victims dug up from 129
mass graves. A sombre notice records that 20,000 people
were killed here by `electric shock, poison, steel bar,
gun, axe, bamboo stick, hammer and hoe', among them `one
Australian, one Frenchman and six American journalists'.
You have to have a strong stomach to visit Choeung Ek
and, perhaps, an even stronger one to visit Tuol Sleng,
the former school turned interrogation centre where Pol
Pot's lieutenant Duch exercised his murderous regime.
The climbing frames in the children's playground became
instruments of torture from which prisoners were
suspended to have their heads dunked in water. The walls
of the cells are still spattered with blood, and row
upon row of photographs demonstrate the meticulous care
with which the Angka tyranny documented its victims and
recorded their 'confessions'.
In one of the rooms is an enlarged photograph of the
scene on 17 April 1975, when Pol Pot's flag-waving,
banner-carrying Khmer Rouge soldiers, standing on the
backs of open trucks, were surrounded by cheering crowds
as they entered Phnom Penh. By the end of the day the
forced evacuation of Phnom Penh had been ordered and the
mass killings had begun with well over a million
Cambodians losing their lives in one of the worst
genocides in history.
Pinned up on the wall of another room are the Tuol Sleng
`Security Regulations'.
These are the ten commandments
of the Khmer Rouge regime. I copied the prison rules
down in my notebook:
1. You must answer according to my questions - don't
turn them away.
2. Don't try to hide the facts by making pretext this or
that. You are strictly prohibited to contest me.
3. Don't be a fool for you are a chap who dare to thwart
the revolution.
4. You must immediately answer my questions without
wasting time to reflect.
5. Don't tell me about your immoralities or the essence
of the revolution.
6. While getting lashes or electrification you must not
cry at all.
7. Do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders. When I
ask you to do something, you must do it right away
without protest.
8. Don't make protests about Kampuchea Krom in order to
hide your jaw of traitor.
9. If you don't follow the above rules, you shall get
many lashes of electric wire.
10. If you disobey any point of my regulations, you
shall get either ten lashes or five shocks of electric
discharge.
As we left Tuol Sleng, my driver told me that both his
parents had been tortured to death there.
Choeung Ek, Tuol Sleng, the stories ordinary people tell
you of their own or their relatives' suffering - these
things are quite enough to put President Jiang's visit
to Cambodia in a different light. If you want to raise
human-rights issues with China, you don't have to limit
them to Tiananmen Square. What China has done by proxy
counts too.
To be fair, China has never sought to disguise its
support (then and now) for the Khmer Rouge. The support
of the United States for the Khmer Rouge is far more
nebulous. History's airbrush has been at work overtime.
Human-rights campaigners in the USA have conveniently
forgotten that people like Zbigniew Brzezinski,
President Carter's national security adviser, actively
promoted US support of the China-backed Khmer Rouge as a
counterweight to Soviet support of Vietnam. Even after
1979, when the Cambodian atrocities had come fully to
light and Pol Pot had retired to the jungles along the
Thai border, the Khmer Rouge still had friends at a very
high level in the US administration, with the USA
insisting that they should be in any future Cambodian
coalition - as indeed they are today.
The reality is that US and Chinese interests, as regards
the Khmer Rouge, have long converged far more than they
diverged, a fact which President Clinton's historic
visit to Vietnam this week will not be able to obscure.
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Even though there is no escaping the almost palpable
reek of Cambodia's past, it is nonetheless possible to
sense a brighter future. I discovered, for example, that
there had, after all, been some protests on the streets
about President's Jiang's visit. Serious efforts are
being made to stamp out crime and corruption. There are
even moves afoot to bring some of the worst Khmer Rouge
criminals at last to trial.
My visit to Phnom
Penh coincided with the three-day Water Festival, an event which
marks a hydraulic phenomenon as the Tonle Sap river (which joins
the Mekong more or less in front of the Cambodiana Hotel)
reverses itself and flows in the opposite direction. I had a
grandstand view of enormously long barges, each powered by
scores of colorfully dressed
rowers, thrashing up and down the river in some gigantic
Asiatic Henley Regatta while the cheerful, smiling
crowds congregated along the quays in tens of thousands. |
Ten
years ago this festival was still banned. Today it is a
time for national rejoicing. If rivers can reverse
direction, who knows what other miracles may happen? We
may even see peace and prosperity return to this antique
land.
Author Johnson, Stanley
Copyright Spectator Nov 25
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company.
All rights Reserved
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